Brazil Catedral
Metropolitana After King John VI returned
to Portugal in 1821 and Brazil became independent in 1822, a new building
boom began. By the end of that century the city had implemented the latest
modern technology with a race track, railroad connection, street lighting,
sewage system, radio telegraphy, and a telephone system. After the turn
of the century many older colonial buildings made way for wider new roads
and increasingly high rise buildings. Even as late as the 1960s colonial
buildings were demolished to make way for the impressive avant-garde Catedral
Metropolitana that was inaugurated in 1976. Yet some old alleys are hidden
away on either side of the central pedestrian street of Avenida Rio Branca.
Throngs of people pass hundreds of small stores here. There is not a space
free in the numerous restaurants during lunch-time because it is less expensive
to eat here, and often better than in the tourist restaurants of the southern
zone.
ime stands still on the
Ilha Fis-Zustoms Island). The greenish ling was constructed in 1880 eo-Gothic
style. The expen-' and carefully restored palace loused the Museum Cultural
arinha since 1999 in which the ing and items of practical use the royal
family can be seen, he botanical gardens (Jardim lico) in
the Tijuca National are an oasis in the midst of this : metropolis.
It is one of the tropical botanical gardens and •etums of the world. John
VI >lants of economic importance other tropical parts of the 1 planted
here. Today there are id seven thousand species ing there
São Paulo
The view from the top of
São Paulo’s tallest building, the Edificio Italiano reveals South
America’s largest city (over 10 million inhabitants) and Brazil’s financial,
commercial and industrial heartland. Famed throughout the continent for
its abundant nightlife and shopping, São Paulo’s rapidly growing
population resides in a sprawling urban maze characterized by perpetual
traffic jams and a chronic lack of space. While São Paulo’s concrete
jungle is a far cry from the color and charm of other Brazilian cities,
there are some cultural attractions on offer, notably the MASP – Museu
de Arte de São Paulo with an internationally renowned collection
of impressionist paintings (with works by Van Gogh and Degas amongst many
others).
The Brazilian Northeast
The Northeast of Brazil
is famed for its beautiful beaches and distinct history and folklore. Known
as the ‘Golden Coast’, this region contains the states of Alagoas, Bahia,
Ceará, Maranhão, Paraíba, Pernambuco, Piauí,
Rio Grande do Norte and Sergipe
.Salvador da Bahia
The state capital is split
into upper and lower sections. Cidade Alta, the heart of the old city,
is perched at the top of a 50m-high cliff, linked to Cidade Baixa by steep
streets, a funicular railway and the marvelous Art-Deco Elevador Lacerdo.
The majority of Salvador’s museums, palaces and churches are concentrated
within Cidade Alta and thus the city is ideal for exploring on foot. This
UNESCO World Heritage Site boasts a staggering number of churches, including
the impressive Church of São Francisco and the fascinating Church
of Bonfim, where middle-class matrons rub shoulders with the peasantry
as they gather to worship. However, religion in Bahia is not limited to
the established church. The state’s African legacy extends to candomble,
a fusion of African and Catholic religions. Candomble followers dress in
white and honor hundreds of native deities in terreiros (or cult houses)
all over the city, it is possible to witness ceremonies as some terreiros
accept visitors as long as they dress accordingly and are respectful.
Salvador has some of the
best museums in Brazil and next to the opulent Catedral Basilica is the
Museu Afro-Brasileiro, a fascinating insight into afro-Brazilian culture,
with sections on candomble, capoeira and Carnaval. Other interesting museums
include the Casa de Jorge Amado, Bahia’s best-known novelist, the Museu
da Cidade and the Museu de Arte Sacra, the latter housed in a 17th-century
convent.
Avid shoppers should head
for the Mercado Modelo for a wide variety of goods including many examples
of local handicrafts. The local cuisine (comida bahiana) is among the best
in Brazil, focusing on rich African flavors.
Salvador is also renowned
for being the hub of Brazilian music and Salvador’s central district of
Pelourinho is home to numerous bars and clubs showcasing live music and
afoxé (Salvador’s carnival bands).
Elsewhere
Also in Bahia state, the
Diamantina National Park is also well worth a visit; it contains several
underground lakes (such as Lago Azul) and spectacular waterfalls (such
as Veu da Noiva). The towns of Ilhéus and Aracaju with their ornate
churches and colonial architecture are also worth a visit.
Piauí State contains
the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Serra da Capivara National Park,
which contains ancient cave paintings estimated to be over 25,000 years
old.
Alagoas state capital, Maceiô,
is deservedly proud of its fantastic beaches, reputedly the finest in all
of Brazil.
Pernambuco state capital,
Recife, has been the beneficiary of sizeable investment to promote tourism.
However despite being one of the most visited cities in the Brazilian Northeast,
it still suffers from a poor infrastructure and the influx of rich, foreign
tourists has made begging and street crime a real problem in the city.
A world away is the nearby historical town of Olinda, infamous for its
Carnaval celebrations and one of Brazil’s eight UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Rio Grande do Norte’s state
capital, Natal, is divided between the commercial section of the city and
its beach suburbs – clean, safe and good for surfing. Natal has several
large markets and is famous for its cotton and leather handicrafts.
Ceara’s capital, Fortaleza,
sprawls lazily along a spectacular coastline. Blessed with excellent restaurants
and an abundance of attractions for the visitor, the city is also a great
place to organize a trip to Jericocoara. Just four hours by car, this heavenly
village is nestled between a dazzling white sand-dune desert and a balmy
turquoise sea.
The Interior
Few tourists venture far
from Brazil’s spectacular beaches but a trip into the interior reveals
a different Brazil, one with a great deal to offer the visitor.
Minas Gerais
As its name suggests, this
was so called after the abundant gold and diamond mines that transformed
the state into a treasure trove of gold and also of baroque art. During
the 18th century, the stream of riches from this region was so relentless
that the Portuguese lacked sufficient ships to transport it to Europe.
Almost all the gold that gilded altars in cathedrals and churches from
as far north as Olinda came from Minas. In towns such as Ouro Preto, Tiradentes,
Sabará and Mariana, this tidal wave of wealth resulted in the construction
of hundreds of churches and civic buildings in lavish baroque style. All
of the cidades históricas are immaculately preserved examples of
Brazil’s colonial heritage and are accessible by road from the state capital
Belo Horizonte. This region’s highlight for art-lovers is Aleijadinho’s
interpretation of ‘The Passion’ at the Basilica de Bom Jesus de Matosinhos.
Set in gardens that gently slope towards Matosinhos town, the work is positioned
in six small domed chapels filled with life-size statues that dramatize
the scenes. All of the figures, including the 12 magnificent soapstone
statues of prophets from the Old Testament, are more poignant for being
sculpted by an artist almost completely disabled by the advanced stages
of leprosy and who, therefore, knew it to be his final work.
Elsewhere
Brasília, the country’s
capital, was built on land originally covered by cerrado (sub-tropical
forest) and is renowned for its futuristic architecture, most notable in
the Praça dos Três Poderes, Palácio do Planalto and
the National Congress. Attracting far fewer visitors than the huge cities
of Rio and São Paulo or the tropical paradise of the Northeast,
Brasília has little to offer the visitor interested in Brazilian
history and culture. However, it is Brazil’s future and it is up to the
individual to decide whether it is as attractive as Brazil’s colorful past.
Mato Grosso is the gateway
to the Pantanal, a vast area of wetlands approximately half the size of
France and Brazil’s largest ecological reserve. Flooded by the Rio Paraguai
during the wet season (October to March), this region is the best place
in Brazil to see wildlife. However, the region is sparsely populated, with
few towns or villages and only one major road (the ‘Transpantaneira’).
Therefore, in order to get the most out of the area, wildlife enthusiasts
should choose an organized tour with experienced guides.
The South
Porto Alegre
In the rich southern state
of Rio Grande do Sul, this city caters for thousands of tourists each year,
the majority of whom come from nearby Argentina. The capital has excellent
museums, art galleries and restaurants to entertain the visitor, as well
as delightful surrounding countryside. To the west, travelers can visit
the ruins of the 300-year-old Jesuit missions, abandoned when the Jesuits
were expelled from Spain. One of the most fascinating is Saõ Miguel
das Missões, yet another UNESCO World Heritage Site, located 58km
(36 miles) from the town of Santo Angelo (a good starting point for visiting
the missions). The most popular beaches in this area are the Tramandai
and Torres, respectively 126km (78 miles) and 209km (130 miles) from Pôrto
Alegre. In addition, the region’s Gramado and Canela Mountains provide
ample opportunities for walking and trekking.
Elsewhere
The state of Santa Catarina,
with its island capital of Florianópolis, has superb beaches at
Laguna, Itapena and Camburiu. The island is famous for its excellent surfing
and watersports facilities are particularly good in the area. Further inland
Blumenau and Joinville are both living testaments to the last century’s
massive influx of German immigration with both towns constructed in predominantly
German architecture. Germanic culture is still vibrant in small towns like
Pomerode (near Blumenau) where German remains the lingua franca with Portuguese
only used in government offices. Blumenau’s annual three-week Oktoberfest
is not to be missed.
Paraná is a prime
coffee-producing state with a bright modern capital, Curitiba, whose public
transport system could be the envy of European capitals like London or
Paris. Efficient trams run throughout the city and travelers are encased
in glass tunnels that protect them from the elements as they wait for the
next tram. However, Curitiba is relatively compact and (weather permitting)
easy to explore on foot with most areas of interest found in the historic
center. Curitiba is famous for its parks, two of which are worth seeking
out; visitors will be fascinated by the riot of vivid plumage in the aviaries
of the Passeio Público, where several species of local birds are
kept. A fascinating insight into frontier life and the endeavours of countless
European immigrants, who moved here during the last 150 years, is the Museu
de Imigração Polenesa in the center of Bosque João
Paulo. The museum’s best exhibits are the log cabins, built by Polish immigrants
in the 1880s and relocated here over 100 years later.
The train journey between
Curitiba and Paranaguá is a spectacular journey through dense jungle,
its route strewn with memorials for the many workers who perished from
tropical diseases as they constructed the tracks. Accessible by road or
air from Curitiba are the world-famous Iguazu Falls, a spectacular set
of 70m waterfalls, including the impressive Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s
Throat). Standing near the waterfalls is a humbling experience.
The deafening roar of 5000 cubic
meters of water cascading down each second accompanies a perpetual (and
in summer temperatures, welcoming) mist that envelopes visitors. The area
encompasses two national parks, each boasting hundreds of species of plant
and animal life, and spans the borders of two countries, Argentina and
Brazil, divided by the River Paraná. For a good view of the entire
set of falls, visit the Brazilian side of the Park in Foz de Iguazu and
photograph the spectacle. To get close enough to stare into the watery
abyss, visit the Argentine side. Unfortunately, there is no access to Brazil
from the Argentine Park or vice versa, so visitors wishing to see both
parks must travel overland to the border crossing, about 10km south. Due
to Foz de Iguazu’s proximity to both the Argentine and Paraguayan borders,
it is possible to visit both countries in a day trip from Foz.
The Northern Interior and
Amazon
Almost entirely covered
with dense rainforest, Brazil’s northern interior is split into the vast
regions of Amazonas, Pará, Acre and Rondônia. These massive
federal states easily outstrip the land resources of many European countries
and, combined, cover over 3,400,000 sq km (1,300,000 sq miles) of endless
jungle filled with countless species of life.
Rondônia and Acre
Created in 1991 Rondônia
has suffered extensive deforestation. There are still natural wonders hidden
away such as the stunning Teotonio and Santo Antônio Falls, accessible
from capital Porto Velho. Other attractions include river trips to the
Forte Principe de Beira or to Bolivia, where air taxis operate to La Paz
from Guayaramerin.
Territorially annexed from
Bolivia in the early 20th century, Acre is a state of contrasts with a
funky capital in Rio Branco, a thriving market and university town on the
river. Because of its student population, Rio Branco has good nightlife
and its geographical position as a trading post has made the town an important
handicrafts center.
Amazonas
The state capital, Manaus,
was transformed by the 19th-century rubber boom and nowhere is this more
evident than in the Teatro Amazonas, built in 1896 in the elaborate style
of the Italian Renaissance. In front of the theater, a marble square is
designed to reflect the four continents represented by four great ships.
Along Avenida Sete de Setembro are numerous museums worth a visit; the
Museo do Indio, Museo de Amazonas and the marvelous colonial mansion that
houses the Centro Cultural de Palacio Rio Negro, an extensive archive of
naturalist Alexandre Ferreira. The city is easy to navigate and offers
the visitor both fine restaurants and tax-free bargains in the free trade
zone. As a major port for river-traffic with arrivals and departures to
Colombia, Peru and Venezuela, Manaus is an excellent starting point for
river trips and guided tours into the rainforest. 25 million years ago,
the volcanic activity that created the Andes blocked the Amazon’s path
to the Pacific, sending it on the 6400km journey to the Atlantic and thus
creating the vast Amazon basin. Upriver from Manaus, the rivers Amazon
and Negro meet but their waters (yellow and black respectively) run parallel
for many miles in different-colored channels.
Para and Amapa
The Eastern Amazon region
is split between the states of Para and Amapa. Para’s state capital Belem
was founded in 1616. Situated at the Atlantic end of the Amazon estuary
at the mouth of the Rio Tocantins, Belem is a thriving port city with an
exquisite historical center, dotted with splendid churches and elegant
parks. The Goeldi Museum boasts the largest collection of tropical plants
in the world. The docks are the location of the early-morning Ver O Peso
(See the Weight) market, which was originally a slave market but still
exists these days although the stalls now mostly sell fruit and produce
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Few tourists venture far from
Brazil’s spectacular beaches but a trip into the interior reveals a different
Brazil, one with a great deal to offer the visitor.Minas Gerais